Placing Gear Efficiently

Effective placement of gear comes down three things, knowing your racking system, developing a good eye for placements as well as the appropriate size of relative protection, and using rests where possible to place gear whilst in balance. The first two are down to hands on experience with your rack and gear placements. You might … Read morePlacing Gear Efficiently

Racking up for Trad Climbing

How to Climb Harder

Using your rack efficiently is down to dexterity, remaining calm and staying organised. Know what you are carrying, where it is and make sure that when you take something from you rack you return it to the same place. The consequence of a messy rack is wasted time and energy spent looking for the small … Read moreRacking up for Trad Climbing

Clipping Quickdraws

There are several correct ways to clip a karabiner as a running belay and many more incorrect ways. You may be surprised how many people get it wrong or fumble every time they go to clip a rope into what can only be described as the most common piece of climbing equipment. Clipping quickdraws then … Read moreClipping Quickdraws

Gear Placements – General

Placing good runners and anchors is the foundation of the safe ropework. Poor placements will make your other efforts futile if the anchors are all going to fail. A placement will only be as good as the rock it’s in, loose rock and super cial akes will be poor placements. Follow the three S’s when … Read moreGear Placements – General

Gear Placements – Camming Devices

Camming Devices are the most complicated piece of gear to place well, if mastered they can offer solid protection in places that otherwise would be impossible to use. The reason being that cams can be used in parallel sided cracks. One of the most important consideration in placing cams is that when loaded the device … Read moreGear Placements – Camming Devices

Gear Placements – Trees

Trees like spikes, are great placements but not many climbers are experienced tree surgeons so it is difficult to be sure of them. First look up, the tree should look alive, with either leaves or in the mist of winter some fresh buds or healthy looking branches. Then look down to see if the roots … Read moreGear Placements – Trees