Clove Hitch back to a HMS  screwgate karabiner.

Equalising Three Anchors

In trad climbing we are often confronted with far from optimal anchors, and whilst they may never be dangerous, there is a moment of doubt in our minds. Or for the beginner it may simply be the lack of judgement over an anchor. Equalising Three Anchors help to combat these issues in a couple of ways.

It will make your belay stronger as it has more pieces of gear protecting you, it also shares the load between those piece making each less likely to fail under the same load. So for a little extra time and effort you gain massively in safety.

Equalising Three Anchors with a rope

Equalising three anchor point with a rope is similar to two points. First tie off one end of the rope with a fig of 8. Make a loop and just clip a loop of rope through the next anchor. Make another loop and then tie the rope off with a clove hitch to the third anchor. To make the anchors independent and equalised tie an overhand in both loops that hand down.
Equalising three anchor point with a rope is similar to two points. First tie off one end of the rope with a fig of 8. Make a loop and just clip a loop of rope through the next anchor. Make another loop and then tie the rope off with a clove hitch to the third anchor. To make the anchors independent and equalised tie an overhand in both loops that hand down.

Equalising Three Anchors with a sling and rope

This method is more common, as you can equalise two of the three points with a sling and then equalise this one joined point to the third anchor with the rope. You can take it a stage further and equalise two sets of two anchors with a sling and then link these with the rope, making a belay made up of four anchors!

Equalising three anchors with a sling and a rope. Equalise two points with a sling and then equalise the single point from that to the other point with the rope.
Equalising three anchors with a sling and a rope. Equalise two points with a sling and then equalise the single point from that to the other point with the rope.

Learn-to-rock-climb

 

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Rock Climbing Essential Skills and Techniques