Placing Gear Efficiently

Effective placement of gear comes down three things, knowing your racking system, developing a good eye for placements as well as the appropriate size of relative protection, and using rests where possible to place gear whilst in balance. The first two are down to hands on experience with your rack and gear placements. You might … Read morePlacing Gear Efficiently

Single Versus Double Ropes

Many climbers choose to use double or half ropes when trad or multi pitched sport climbing. However the whole single versus double ropes is not necessarily that simple. Single Versus Double Ropes for climbing Single Ropes Approximate diameter 9mm to 11mm Easier to belay on one rope Easier to hold a fall so good for beginners … Read moreSingle Versus Double Ropes

Belaying a lead Climber

Your lead climbers life is literally in your hands. There is a big difference between belaying someone on a top rope and belaying a lead climber. When you start to belay a lead climber you need to have someone with experience close at hand, backing you up. A good belayer will pay constant attention to … Read moreBelaying a lead Climber

Trad Climbing Belay

When you are trad climbing, you won’t have an extra rope with you to rig a trad climbing belay. As such you need to use the rope you are climbing with to make a belay and then bring up the climber(s). This system is one of the most pratical in terms of ‘real’ climbing – … Read moreTrad Climbing Belay

Gear Placements – General

Placing good runners and anchors is the foundation of the safe ropework. Poor placements will make your other efforts futile if the anchors are all going to fail. A placement will only be as good as the rock it’s in, loose rock and super cial akes will be poor placements. Follow the three S’s when … Read moreGear Placements – General

Gear Placements – Camming Devices

Camming Devices are the most complicated piece of gear to place well, if mastered they can offer solid protection in places that otherwise would be impossible to use. The reason being that cams can be used in parallel sided cracks. One of the most important consideration in placing cams is that when loaded the device … Read moreGear Placements – Camming Devices

Gear Placements – Trees

Trees like spikes, are great placements but not many climbers are experienced tree surgeons so it is difficult to be sure of them. First look up, the tree should look alive, with either leaves or in the mist of winter some fresh buds or healthy looking branches. Then look down to see if the roots … Read moreGear Placements – Trees